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Step 1 - I gather the necessary tools
For my floor laying, I need a meter, a carpenter's hammer with a striking head on one side and a nail puller on the other, points with fine heads and finally a hand or electric saw (here pendulum saw).
Step 2 - I choose my floor
The floor is formed of a more or less wide strip of wood which has ridges on the face which will be placed on the ground. Each blade has a groove on one side and a tongue on the other, in order to fit the blades into each other. If you choose a lower quality floor, avoid taking too wide planks that may deform over time. Choose boards with as few knots as possible: these reduce the resistance of the floor.
Step 3 - I get started
Using a blue cord, I draw a line parallel to the wall so as to begin the installation of the square.
Step 4 - I calculate my cuts
Depending on the length of the room and the floorboards, I have to calculate so that I don't have a large board and a small piece at the end of the room. Here in order not to see too much waste in the cuts, we put some blades perpendicular to the rest of the floor. These blades will then be hidden by a cupboard.
Step 5 - I leave air circulation
The whole art of construction lies in good air circulation to prevent mold. In order to leave a slight clearance along the wall, I temporarily screw the second board and using a pair of pliers, I slightly bring the blade inward. The wall is clear and the first two boards are perfectly joined.
Step 6 - I nail the first blade
Using the hammer, I push the point into the first plank of the floor. This point will be placed directly on top of the blade. With a martyr, I chase the point, so that it does not protrude from the floor.
Step 7 - I stagger my blades
In order to obtain something that is attractive to the eye, but also more resistant, I make sure that my blades are staggered. Two identical cuts should never follow each other.
Step 8 - I insert the blades correctly between them
Using a wooden martyr (small piece of wood found in waterfalls) I insert the second plank into the first, hitting gently with the hammer on the martyr placed against the floorboard. The result is good when the two floorboards are joined.
Step 9 - I fix the other floorboards
To fix the following blades, I put the diagonal points on the side of the blade, so as to make them invisible.
Step 10 - An impeccable finish
If I followed all the steps, I get a floor with a nice finish. I can now wax it the old fashioned way. In order not to have to repeat this operation too often, I apply two coats of oil which will keep the original color of my floor and make it more resistant to shocks and different stains. Floor treated this way can be washed with a damp mop.