Tutorial: how to repair or change a wheelbarrow wheel?

Tutorial: how to repair or change a wheelbarrow wheel?

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No need to dwell on the reasons for such a mishap, these are things that happen, and sometimes too often! But let's get straight into action, hopefully we will fix the thorny problem of the punctured wheel once and for all. When you puncture your wheelbarrow, you have several options. The most comfortable: you go to your garage with the wheel to have it repaired, but you will then pay a high price. A second requiring a moderate effort: you go to a garden center in the hope of finding an identical new one, even a full wheel, but you refuse to make such a mess. Finally, the most involving and also the most rewarding for the ego: you buy a puncture repair kit and you do the repair yourself. It's nicer, probably faster and above all less expensive than the other solutions. Even if you have not yet punctured, be aware that puncture protection kits also apply as a preventive measure, they are often more effective in this case. In general, they adapt to all cases, but check that they are suitable for your valve. They are either of the "SCHRADER" type (also spelled SHRAEDER), identical to the valves fitted to cars ... and most wheelbarrows, or of the "PRESTA" type. They are then thinner and equipped with an element to unscrew to inflate them, like bicycle wheels. In the latter case, this means that your wheel is fitted with an inner tube. You will therefore need a specific kit under pressure, because the method that we present here will not be suitable. You will find these kits in DIY stores as well as in some service stations or garden centers.
Difficulty : moderate Cost : Less than 10 euros Tools required : - an anti-puncture kit - a flat wrench for the wheel nut - a piece of chalk or a marker - a pump to re-inflate the wheel

Step 1: Check these points before you start

Check the valve type as explained above before purchasing the puncture repair kit.
On the sidewall of the tire must appear the mention "tubeless", ie without tube.

Step 2: Remove the wheel

Using the open-end wrench, loosen the nut to remove the wheel. You may need another key opposite to prevent the axis from turning.

Step 3: Inspect the tire

All foreign objects that may be stuck in the tire must be removed. Needle nose pliers or tweezers may be helpful.

Step 4: Spot the leaks

Put water in the tank and inflate the wheel. Immerse it in it and visually locate all the places where small bubbles escape (there may be several). For more precision, take the wheel out of the water and run dishwashing liquid to the spot you have located. Where the bubbles swell, there is a hole.
Use chalk to indicate the location of the hole by marking the sidewall of the tire.

Step 5: Remove the shell from the valve

All kits have a tool to remove the shell from the valve.
If you have not already done so, deflate the wheel (if necessary), then insert the tool and unscrew normally, counterclockwise.
Gently remove the shell and put it in a safe place.

Step 6: Insert the kit

With the valve core removed, turn the wheel so that the valve is in the 4 or 8 o'clock position. This is important to avoid that the repair liquid spills unnecessarily on the central part if it is in the midday position, or that its insertion is hindered by a too dense heap if it is in the 6 o'clock position.
Press the bottle to let the clogging liquid penetrate. The recommended quantity is specified on the label: in our case, half the bottle is recommended. Slowly turn the wheel and linger on the places marked with chalk, positioning the marks downwards so that the liquid clogs the openings.

Step 7: Reassemble the elements

The puncture protection kit is inserted into the tire. Reassemble the valve with the tool, and inflate to the pressure indicated on the tire. In the unlikely event that your wheel is not original, you must also look at the inflation pressure that the rim accepts, it is written on it, and inflate to the lower of the two maximum pressure values ​​indicated.
Reassemble the wheel and tighten the nut. Leave the chalk marks in the 6 o'clock position in case the liquid is not completely frozen inside. That's all. Not only is the hole blocked, but you are now protected against other punctures that may occur. It is so simple that one could almost wonder why the wheels are not treated directly at the factory against punctures…?


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